By Joe Kertzman
There are some ways to make a knife, so Allen Elishewitz offers step by step directions on construction his kind of high-tech folders that may be utilizing easy or huge industrial-type machines.
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Additional resources for Making a Modern Tactical Folder
The liners are the only things that do not get detailed at this point. When the blade is taken out of the oven at 1,975 degrees, the bag is immediately cut and the red-hot blade is placed between two pieces of steel. The two pieces of steel act as a heat sink, helping draw the heat away from the blade and cool it down quicker. This is well worth mentioning—damascus steel has a much higher tendency to warp because the steel is placed under a tremendous amount of stress during the initial forging process.
250-inch in diameter. The reason why I ream undersize is because this is a damascus blade, and when I etch it, the acid will enlarge the pivot hole. Once the blade has been profiled, drilled and reamed, it is ready for heat-treating. I wrap the blade in steel foil, and with a carbide scribe, I poke a small breather hole in the corner of the foil bag. If you do not do this, at high temperatures, all the oxygen will be burned out of the bag and it will create a vacuum. In a vacuum situation, the chances of warping your blade or of the bag welding itself to your blade are extremely high.
After the handle has been profiled and the bolsters have been contoured to a 120-grit finish, I screw the material onto the handle. Then I grind the handle material to the liners and I finish the handle material profile with a 400-grit belt. I make sure that the handle material is flush with the liners. I contour the handle material with a 120-grit belt, which is my rough grind. My medium grind will result in a 400-grit finish. On the handle, I use a 600-grit slack belt. This will remove any kind of imperfection in the handle and give it a smooth appearance.
Making a Modern Tactical Folder by Joe Kertzman